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If you'd like to check out the fresh seafood offered at Redlands' Little Fisherman, here's a word of advice: Call in advance and make sure they haven't sold out. In fact, you may want to call in the morning and reserve your servings. That's what you have to expect when the fish served at the restaurant isn't frozen and trucked in, but rather bought fresh every morning in San Pedro by owner Michael Kalina. The day my husband and I planned to go, I called in the morning to get a rundown of what they'd be serving. The selection seemed endless, so I reserved servings of salmon and mahi mahi. We got to the restaurant, tucked between a gas station and a car dealership, and chose how we wanted the fish prepared: grilled for the salmon ($19.95) and deep-fried for the mahi mahi ($12.95). (The restaurant also serves some dishes sauted; and all entrees come with a side.) Kalina said our choice of salmon put us in line with many of the regulars at the Little Fisherman, though halibut is also a good seller, as is swordfish when he gets it. He tries to discourage customers from getting the same dish visit after visit. "I try to get them not to be creatures of habit. I'll try to talk them into trying something different," he said. My husband and I stayed in our comfort zone, choosing crab cakes ($7.95) and shrimp cocktail ($8.95) for appetizers. The homemade cocktail sauce was tangy, packing a spicier punch than others we've had. The crab cakes were solid without being dense or hockey-puckish. But it was all a prelude to the delicious entrees. The salmon, about twice as large as portions served at some restaurants, was moist and succulent. The deep-fried mahi mahi was thick but flaky, and the light tempura batter let the flavor of the fish come through. At one point, my husband, supping on salmon, stuck his fork across and tried my mahi mahi. "Mmmm!" he exclaimed. "That's really good!" And then he laughed. "What's so funny?" "Well," he said, relishing the moment, "your dinner is really, really good ... but mine is so much better!" And the experience of everyone having the best dish is what Kalina hopes his customers get. "I want them to get an appreciation for fresh fish, for all the hard work we do," he said. "We don't do burgers, we don't do pasta. We are straight fresh seafood."

MORENO VALLEY - I've been hearing good things from colleagues about the curry at Best Thai Cuisine, which now has a restaurant in Moreno Valley as well as Riverside. When I visited, I liked the curry and everything else about the restaurant. Best Thai Cuisine offers satisfying meals and attractive presentation at reasonable prices. The decor is bright and simple, with sunny yellow walls and bamboo placemats. The staff is friendly and helpful in explaining the menu. And the menu is large and varied. I had the yellow curry with chicken for $6.95. Other meat choices include beef, pork, shrimp and duck -- add $3 for the latter. You can also request tofu. The dinner portion could probably serve two or three people, with steamed rice ordered separately for $1 for a single person or $2 for a pot to serve two or three people. There was ample chicken and broth in the bowl, but the vegetables impressed me the most: firm and colorful onion and crinkle-cut carrots that retained their flavor. Available at the same price are red, green, yellow and massaman curry. Seafood dishes occupy the high end of the menu here, with items such as catfish with chili paste costing $8.95, deep-fried sole for $9.95, and soups for $12.95-$13.95. There are several noodle selections and intriguing rice dishes that include fried rice with chicken, pineapple, cashews and raisins for $7.95. A dozen appetizer choices include spring rolls; chicken and beef sate; and deep fried tofu. Prices are $4.95-$6.95. Nine salad choices, with ingredients ranging from fresh vegetables to calamari, cost $6.95-$8.95. My dessert was spectacular: a ripe mango attractively sliced and served with sweet rice. It was at the high end at $5.50. Among the other choices are coconut ice cream for $3 and fried banana for $3.50. I also enjoyed a Thai iced tea with whipped cream topping for $2.25. With boba, the price goes up to $3.25. Lunch specials start at $6.95 and include red, green and yellow curry and such items as coconut chicken, pepper steak and mixed vegetables. You get steamed rice, egg roll and choice of soup or salad. Best Thai Cuisine Where: 25155 Sunnymead Blvd., Moreno Valley Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday; noon-9 p.m. Saturday-Sunday Credit cards: Not accepted, but there is an ATM on the premises. Price range of entrees: $6.95-$13.95 Beverages: Thai ice tea and coffee, $2.25-$4.50; coffee, $1.50; hot tea, $1; soft drinks, $1.50 Parking: Lot Reservations: Not required Information: 951-242-1667, www.bestthai-cuisine.com

Yard House patrons can actually look forward to seeing the police this week. On Wednesday from 5 to 9 p.m., California Highway Patrol officers will seat guests, and wait and bus tables at Yard House in both Riverside and Rancho Cucamonga as part of the fundraising event, Tip A CHiP. Donations from eaters go to The Law Enforcement Torch Run, which benefits Special Olympics Southern California. According to a news release, Special Olympics Southern California serves more than 11,000 children and adults who have intellectual disabilities. For restaurant locations, visit www.yardhouse.com.

At Filippi's Pizza Grotto in Temecula, two things are certain. First, the portions are big. Too big for the average person to finish in one sitting. Second, expect to wait. The small dining area fills up quickly, and the lobby is standing room only, so you may have to take a seat outside on a bench for a while. "This place is busy every day," owner Mike DeFilippi said. To help pass the time, youngsters peer into the kitchen from outside through the screen door and window to watch the assembly line of cooks flip pizzas, smother them with sauce and cheese and slide them in and out of the ovens. The hostess told us it would be 20 minutes on a Sunday evening, but within 15 minutes we were seated. By then, the smell of tomato sauce and pizza had made us more than ready to get started. The original Filippi's opened in 1950 as an Italian deli in San Diego's Little Italy district. That location has become a San Diego landmark, DeFilippi said. The Temecula location, one of 11 now in the state (all owned by the same family), opened in this strip mall in 1992 and remains the only Filippi's in the Inland region. It's a little off the beaten path, meaning away from the rush of Temecula's historic Old Town and the busy Promenade shopping mall. But that's a good thing. Inside, you're immediately greeted by traditional Italian-style dcor -- wine bottles are everywhere, hanging from the ceiling and lining shelves. The place is dimly lit with little reprieve from the candles on the red-and-white checkered tables. Filippi's specializes in pizza, lasagna, salads, sandwiches, homemade sausage and meatballs. "Lasagna is our No. 1," DeFilippi said. The food comes in big portions, and most is smothered with cheese and red sauce. After several attempts to finish it all, my family has never managed to leave without at least one to-go container. This time around, we chose dinner salads ($3.90 each), a large pepperoni pizza ($16.95), lasagna ($8.75) -- which was recommended by our waitress -- and a torpedo sandwich ($5.65), all divided between three adults and two children. You'll be tempted to snack on the huge Italian rolls and butter placed on the table, but beware. Nothing at Filippi's is small, so save room. Up next is the delicious Italian salad, with lettuce, red cabbage, pepperoncini, green olives, cherry tomatoes and tangy vinaigrette. Even the starter salad is big, and a good value at less than $4. The 17-inch pizza -- voted best pizza in San Diego several times, DeFilippi said -- was so thick and cheesy that one huge piece was plenty for an average adult. A thin layer of pepperoni was tucked in between the -inch layer of cheese and sauce. This pizza was a cheese-lover's dream. But for us, much of the cheese was discarded. For less than $9, we could easily see why lasagna is Filippi's most popular pasta dish. It was at least 3 inches deep, overcrowding the 8-inch dinner plate. About five layers of noodles melded well with huge chunks of ricotta and mozzarella cheese and, of course, it came smothered with marinara (or meat) sauce. Filippi's offers 11 types of sandwiches. We chose the torpedo, which is less spicy than the "super" torpedo. It came with mortadella and dried salami, lettuce, tomato and cheese on two huge Italian rolls. This was more sandwich than the three adults could eat. For less than $6, this sandwich is a bargain. The children's menu has spaghetti ($5.05), ravioli ($5.90) and a smaller lasagna ($7.25) dish. There are also eight dinner choices, from cheese manicotti ($11.25) to shrimp Filippi ($14.95). Filippi's has an extensive wine menu, including three types of house wines at $3.95 a glass. The lunch menu offers smaller portions and prices, from spaghetti ($5.95) to a 10-inch "special" pizza (meat, cheese, veggies) for $10.95. Our family favorite is the Italian Feast for Two, served Sunday through Thursday. For $17.95, you get a 10-inch pizza, spaghetti, lasagna, salad and bread. It's called Feast for Two, but it might feed a family of four, plus leftovers. Joe Ardent can be reached at 951-368-9631 or jardent@PE.com .

At many restaurants, I know exactly what I'm going to order when I walk in. I haven't been that decisive at Smokey Canyon BBQ. I've liked everything I've tried. Smokey Canyon BBQ is a relatively new addition to Riverside's Canyon Crest Towne Center, open for about five months. The decor is simple and cheerful with mustard-yellow and ketchup-red walls to put you in the mood for casual dining. The menu, as you'd expect, emphasizes smoked meat, but there's a lot of variety here, and owner Pam Nusser recently expanded the menu. Dinner plates, which are pretty filling, range between $8.95 and $19.50, the lower end being baked potatoes and catfish fillet. The high end is a sampler that includes a choice of pulled pork or pork ribs, chicken, beef brisket and tri tip, Louisiana hot links or barbecued turkey. Often sides make the meal, and there's a strong lineup here, priced $2.25-$3.75. Nusser told me the onion rings are so popular that some customers order seconds. I love the potato salad. Dinners come with a corn muffin and a choice of two sides. Sandwiches come with one side. I've found the sandwich menu a particularly good bargain. I favor the Louisiana hot link grilled with red and yellow peppers, the tri tip and the blue cheeseburger. Most are $7.95 or $8.95. New on the menu are two $9.45 panini sandwiches, brisket and smoked turkey. On the latter, the bread was thin and the meat was sliced thick and definitely smoked, with cranberry spread on one side and spinach leaves on the other. Appetizers are $2.25 to $9.95. If you've never tasted fried green tomatoes, order them for $5.25 and find out what the fuss is about. Anchored by peach and blackberry cobblers, the dessert menu is worth attention. Don't order the bread pudding unless you're serious. It's moist and tasty but filling, and with chocolate chips, pecans, brandy sauce and ice cream, it has a lot going on. The pecan tart sundae is better for smaller appetites. If you prefer takeout, you can order many of the meats by the pound; potato salad and slaw by the pint or quart; and cobbler and bread pudding in servings for up to 36 people. Review meals are paid for by The Press-Enterprise.